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Clip together. The side that is clipped is the side you will sew first.
Saturday, January 02, 2010
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Match centerlines. This is about as close as you can reasonably expect to get.
Assemble pieces
Assembling pieces can be tough if you need things to line up. If you start at one end and don't get it set just right, you'll run out of fabric at one end. This is especially the case with compound curves.
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Put it together. I like big paper clips more than pins. At this point you just want to ensure things don't get rearranged when setting up at the machine. This is not clipping together for final sewing.
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Put the fabric back on seat, make sure you have the new segment aligned in the right direction / location.
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This is why you always want one seat covered when re assembling. You can go back to the original for guidance to how the factory did the assembly.
Sunday, September 11, 2005
- New retaining pins on both spindle nuts
- New retaining pins on both suspension cylinders' attachment points to the upper control arm
- New protective sleeve brake pad wear harness, port side
all of this enabled me to get both front wheels on the ground. I'm now able to turn the motor, which I needed for distributor installation.
Dizzy:
Now that I can turn the motor, I was able to set it at TDC (or actually 10deg BTDC) to set the distributor in place. I was able to set the photoelectric trigger to the proper firing point at 10deg BTDC. The distributor cap I have fits the older ducellier LA2 dizzy. The dimensions are the same, just that the socket for the #1 wire is 180deg from the #1 socket on the newer LA2LD4 dizzy. on the LA2, #1 is in the same axis as the crankshaft, but away from the motor. On the LA2LD4, the #1 socket is in the same axis, but closer to the motor. So, it took a few rotations of the motor & watching the valves before I knew I had #1 at TDC to place the rotor head at the correct clocking.
Upcoming:
Ordered a M6x1.10x70 bolt for the cooling duct on the port side.
Need to get two filters, one for crankcase oil, one for LHM.
Air intake hose to bridge gap between air cleaner and intake plenum.
Monday, September 05, 2005
Labor day
today was a good day. Got lots done, made a lot of progress.
I started with the handbrake adjustments. There just has to be a better way of locking up the brake discs than with this delicate cantilever mechanism. At least on this car the mechanism seems like it has not had the shit beat out of it like on the GTi. Hopefully it will hold. Both sides seem to take OK.
I finish up the right side steering pivot.
Cotter pin on the suspension cylinder.
I let the impact wrench bang on the axle nut for a bit.
Wheel on, bolts in.
I work some more on the left side pivot. The flexible connection that delivers HP to the caliper looks all dried up & shitty. I had one in stock from an ebay purchase a long time ago. Fairly easy installation, although the HP line was hard to get threaded in place. I reinstall the ground wiring on the brake pad warning light leads. It got torn off at some point in the prior day's wrestling with driveshafts and control arm links. I reinstalled the vent duct for the disc cooling. The metal on this duct was in good shape, so I did not strip it down & repaint it. It had a consistent layer of grease & I guess that's why there was no corrosion.
I need to get one of those long bolts to anchor the tin back in place. I put the spindle nut on the driveshaft & let the impact wremch rattle away on that for a bit. Reinstalled the original protective cover and new cotter pin.
Cotter pin for the suspension cylinder.
Installed the HVLP return line from the clutch slave cylinder back to the reservoir. I used the existing rilsan as much as possible. The 90 degree turn at the master cylinder was cracked, so I cut it out & I spliced in a section of fuel injection hose.
Also installed the piddle line from the slave cylinder boot/ gator back to the reservoir.
The return line from the clutch also feeds the master cylinder. A was able to use a length of rilsan for this section.
I bundled the steering HVLP dump hose, the brake HVLP dump hose, and the clutch supply hose to traverse the back of the crossmember. I'm not happy with the connections of the two piddle lines from the DIRAVI box. these need a better hose to grab onto the nipple on the diravi box.
Sunday, September 04, 2005
saturday was almost a complete waste. I had planned to install the left driveshaft, ( so I could turn the engine, so I could install the distributor...) But to get the triax case into the differential, il faut move the vertical link between the upper control arm and the anti roll bar. But the pin on the top part of the link would not come free from the upper control arm. I went to Pepboys & got a pickle fork, but all that did was fuck up the boot around the pin. I called Rich, who offered to loan me the tool to pop the pin out. So out I drive all the way across Jersey to get this tool
I get back home around 7pm. enough.
Sunday is off to a not-so fortuitous start. The instructions for the tool simply say to put the flat part of the tool against the pin and push it through. But the pin is completely recessed within the control arm, so there is nothing for the tool to press against. I pester Rich again, to my embarassment. Rich says, " normally the pin extends a good half inch out of the control arm. " No such luck here. This must have been a running design change. It's not because the pin has already been pushed out partially. It's supposed to be recessed like that. I end up putting the securing nut partially back on, I shove four mending plates in between the tool and the nut, and manage to put enough force on the pin to pop it out. Of course I have my head in the wheelwell when it pops out. This pin and getting the lower control arm off the lower balljoint are like juggling with a loaded pistol. You never know when the thing is going to pop off, and just hope that it does so in controlled manner when it does.
The rest of the job on the left swivel goes pretty smoothly. The drive shaft settled into place without too much fuss.
Lower ball joint is a bit of a struggle to liberate from the pivot. I end up bolting the slide hammer directly to the pin on the balljoint to pop it out. I also gave it some TLC with the propane torch to help it along. The new balljoint is proving to be a bit of a headache. The resistance of the nylock nut is greater than the resistance within the the joint. So after a certain point, turning the nut results in turning the entire pin inside the balljoint, instead of screwing the nut further onto the pin.
I red flag the pin and go for lunch.
after lunch, I install the new (well NOS) master cylinder for the clutch. Fairly easy and painless installation.
Sunday, August 21, 2005
HP lines today.
I fabricated the connection between the line from the master cylinder and the master cylinder. This line needs several loops in order to flex with the powertrain rocking back & forth.
Master cylinder bleed line. The original one I made was too long, so I took it out & cut it down. new flare fitting.
This HP systems will need a lot of bleeding.
Saturday, June 18, 2005
Saturday, May 28, 2005
2200
Took a through bolt from the pressure regulator & put it on the GTi.
I ordered an a/c pulley from WH.. Sure enough, the damn thing was too deep.
Worked on the electrics - finished labeling the wires on the honda fuse box. Started connecting it into the car.
rebuilt connector for low lhm level warning light. Packed it with dielectric grease, sealed it with metripack seals and glopped some silicone on it.
25 GTi:
Installed OEM purflux oil filter. Gave up on trying to dick around with alternatives. WH has reasonable prices, so it won't be that bad. A #4 filter gripper works fine.
Removed pressure regulator so I could replace the first accumulator sphere. Fucking bastards at Advanced Automotive, East 73rd Street Manhattan, screwed it on too tight.
Had to take a through bolt from the 2200 to anchor the accumulator back on. Need to order a new one.
Put the motorcraft battery on the trickle charger. When I started it, the reading was at 70%. The charger did a good job on the Interstate battery, so this should be ok.
The M14 Nylstops that I ordered from Bolt depot are not the same pitch as on the lower balljoint, so I'll have to order some more.
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